Once known as the Paris of the Baltic, Riga was on the up until the Soviets came knocking. Then the Germans knocked from the other direction. Then the Soviets knocked harder. Since Independence in 1991, the capital of Latvia has moved on from the difficulties of the 20th Century, but always with a side-eye to the east. The historic center was designated a Unesco heritage site in 1997 given its history dating back to its founding in 1201. The center sits on the right bank of the River Daugava where its medieval planning and Hanseatic League layout are evident. The coat of arms from that time period dominates the center of the manhole cover. The towers on the seal represent the city’s autonomy while the lion represents the courage of its citizenry. Subservience to the Bishop is noted by the crown and cross and the crossed keys stand for the protection of St. Peter and relatedly the power of the Pope. Rigas Pilsetas Ipasums translates as Property of the City of Riga. Lastly, a bottle cap from the traditional beverage Riga Black Balsam sits at a pickpoint. The drink is a concoction of single barrel-infused spirit water composed of 17 different botanicals with “curative” properties. It was developed in 1752 by pharmacist Abraham Kunze and is best served as an ice cream topping. Priekā!